Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

This pattern should be titled....Sunday Go Meetin'. That is what I think when I look at the designs. Somebody knew how to dress a little girl. I confess that what grabbed me and drew me into this sweet little number is the whole dress. There is not one line, button or cut that I find fault with. Nothing in me says....I would change this or that. The collar, the tailored look the buttons give, the puffy, little sleeve, the waist yoke, full gathered skirt, big yummy bow...what is not to like? The only thing that could possibly be lamented is that more little girls are not dressed in frocks like this ones.


I confess that I think most little girl dresses would be cute in blue gingham...but this one would be really cute in blue gingham. Maybe some red rick rack around the skirt. I would do covered buttons in blue gingham too. OH, I just thought that some daisy trim around the skirt would be even cuter than the red rick rack....I alway default to red rick rack first....because there is just something about rick rack, especially if its red.


I've been looking at the hair style on the little girl in the yellow dress. (view 2) I thinking, thinking, thinking on how to get that hair style on a doll. I'm sure if I think on it long enough I'll figure it out. :)

A year or so ago my goal was to make several of Livie's church dresses from vintage patterns. I've gotten one dress made since that time using a vintage pattern from my stash. What have I learned? Patterns have been dumbed down since the 50's. I literally sweat my way through this pattern. Not that it was really complicated but there was definately way more detail work that took time and precision, which did make for a nicely fitted dress.

The picture is not the best...the flash kept making her blink. The bodice has 6 darts. The bottom of the bodice flared a little to come down over the hips with a fully pleated skirt. There is a nice wide sash that was supposed to be sewn on to the outside of the dress, but I just cannot bring myself to do that so I sewed the sash into the side seam. Simplicity 1496. One of the nicest, tailored dresses I've ever made for Livia. If I were to make this dress again, I think I would do it in a small print blue gingham and sew red buttons onto the chest and waist where those embellishments go. Very cute pattern. Now that I've made it once it should be easier the next time.

I used fabric from from the line Doll Dresses by Holly Holderman of Lakehouse fabrics. Beautiful stuff that Doll Dresses fabric. It makes up around a third of my fabric stash for dressing my own dolls.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that patterns from the 40's are among my favorite to drool over. They are usually simple in their construction and it is the simplicity that makes them sweet and eye catching.

I saw this pattern on Ebay and liked the lines and the potential for smocking the front and back of the dress. All it would take is to make the fabric pieces wider, where the gathers are at the yoke, to support more pleats for smocking across. Very simple to convert. I pulled this pattern out the other day so I could look at the pieces and attempt to draw a doll pattern from it that could be smocked. It would be cute done up in pink gingham with white, dark pink and green smocking across the pleats.

McCalls 6265 Copyright 1945. Size 1.


If I were to make this for a little girl the only change I would make to the pattern (aside from adding enough fabric to the width to be able to smock it) would be to lengthen the dress. Bloomer could be added in a coordinating fabric and would be cute especially with a bit of trim on the legs to match some trim on the dress. I don't think I would do lace or eyelet down the sides of the button panels. I would probably put in piping instead. Depending on the fabric maybe some rick rack. There are a lot of possibilities that make thinking about this dress fun.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that this is one of my favorite patterns ever. I love the blue dress because of the contrasting bias tape on the collar and pocket. But I like the plaid dress because it has sleeves. The skirt is full with a set on waist. This dress also does not have a zipper or buttons in the back for an opening but instead opens at the side and snaps closed. Although I think it would be cute with buttons for closure.



Simplicity 3297. The pattern does acknowledge that the copyright is held by Simplicity but no date is given. The description on the back of the pattern reads:

GIRLS' ONE-PIECE DRESS: A wide square collar is featured on the fitted bodice. Style 1 has short cuffed sleeves. Pockets, trimming with contrasting pointed flaps, are featured on the skirt front. Style 2 is sleeveless. One pocket is omitted and bias binding is used for trimming.

A sweet lady-like dress for a girl to wear. Good for all sorts of occasions.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that sometimes I am pulled in my the colors on the pattern envelope. Like on this pattern. I love the blue dress and the red smocking together and the little red shoes set the whole outfit off. I love little girls that are dressed like little girls. (I love the ones that aren't too but you know what I mean :) ) I like to see a distinction between genders even when children are very young.

This pattern is neat because there are several useful instructions included in the "Simplicity Primer" as the instruction sheet is neatly titled.
Simplicity 3833 and no copyright date that I can find. My envelope is not in the best of shape though.
In this pattern instructions are given for button holes (the hand made variety), tailors tacks and how to straighten uneven fabric. The instruction sheet says "Simplicity Primer, Guide for cutting and sewing....detailed dress making." I like that.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that patterns like this one (in my opinion anyway) are what dressing little girls is all about! If it were me and I had a little girl to sew for again, oh wait...I'm fixing to have a little girl to sew for again, YIPPEE! I would make the dress in a chambray fabric or a light weight, light colored denim and make a few different pinafores to go over it. Then it could be changed up with half the sewing effort. :)



I don't know the pattern number or the copyright date on this one. What I do know is that it was designed by a woman named Helen Lee. Googling her name was the smartest thing I've done in awhile. Apparently she was a BIG children's clothes designer. She designed bunches of patterns for McCalls. AND get this in 1953 she won the Coty Award for her “significant influences in the development of good taste and charm in children’s fashion” now isn't that fun to read! If you take a gander at the Helen Lee link, you'll see that it is true...she had excellent taste in children's clothing and her patterns are a mixed delight of childrens fashions and artwork to look at. I didn't realize it until I Googled Helen Lee's name that I have at least 5 of her patterns in my vintage stash. In the future I will be looking for her name on the patterns I'm drooling over.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that their are vintage patterns, like this one, on Ebay that could cause me to enter the cat fight between all the other vintage baby pattern lovers and determine that I would win the war...er pattern, no matter the cost. Fortunately for me, I hit an estate sale a couple of years ago and discovered a box that had a bunch of old vintage patterns in it and vintage hankies...some of the hankies were still in the pretty boxes that hankies used to come in. I stood guard over the box and when the auctioneer (who is also my pastor) came round he sold the box for junk in with a bunch of other boxes. I entered into a bidding war but was out bid. Apparently, the man I was bidding against saw something in one of the boxes that he really wanted and was willing to pay more than $15 dollars for...that was my limit.

After the auction, I caught the man and his wife loading their boxes of junk and I asked them if they were interested in selling the box with patterns and hankies. They were interested, so I gave them $10 dollars and off I went with my patterns and hankies.

This little beauty was among some of the very sweet patterns and I absolutely love it. If I were to have another baby....I would be pulling this treasure out, along with the embroidery transfers, which are still good and I would be whipping up a few of these.

McCalls 773. Copyright 1940.

I've looked at the instructions and all these little gowns and shirts are very simple to make. I love hand made/home made clothes on babies and children. Anything home made, shows an investment of love, in the life of a child.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that I love practical everyday patterns. Practical patterns that have lots of dress design or lots of mix and match outfits. Practical patterns remind me that sewing is for everyday life, not just special occasions.

Check out this practical and pretty dress pattern.
Simplicity 4924. Copyright ? I can't find one on the envelope. I'm guessing 60's as the pattern is $.50

Several years ago I made a dress similar to these for my youngest daughter for everyday wear. My older daughter and I both commented on how strange it was for me to make her a dress just to play in. Usually if I make a dress we at least wear it it church for awhile before it becomes an everyday dress. I especially like the two dresses at the botton on the right. I think I'm going to be making both styles for my younger daughter, Livia pretty soon. One for church and one for everyday. I like the tailored look the buttons give the yellow dress. I was thinking of doing that one in blue/aqua color with red bias tape and red buttons.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that my real passion for vintage patterns lies in little girl fashions. But every now and then a gem like this pattern, happens into my hands and I have to keep it because its too good to pass up. I received this "Davy Crockett" costume pattern in with some patterns I bought off of Ebay a few years ago. It was a freebie. The sad thing about this pattern is that a couple of the pieces are missing. I kept it anyway because the art work on the envelope is just too sweet to let go of.

McCalls 2008. Copyright 1955


I'm thinking about making something like this for my little boy who has a birthday coming up in May. He would be over the top with a Davy Crockett outfit and a BB gun.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that I have "vintage smocked dress pattern" saved as one of my favorite Ebay searches. I bought this little dandy 4-5 years ago. How fun it would be to have a little girl again to make this New England style coat and bonnet. I can see it in a deep blue woolen fabric, smocked with light blues and vintage white, bullion roses scattered across the pleated, semi bishop shape of the coat. Well there are always grand babies, a girl can dream!

Check it out. McCalls 1311, copyright 1946.
At the bottom of the pattern the writing reads:

Toddler's Coat and Bonnet
A delectable coat and bonnet for your Very Young Pet. The dainty smocked coat has semi raglan sleeves and a nice fullness. Smart in pink, blue or white. The bonnet may be ruffle trimmed or plain.

How is that for a description.

The pattern construction is actually quite simple. The smocking is what dresses up the coat and makes it look stunning. I taught myself to smock around 10 years ago and have made lots of smocked dresses for my youngest daughter and lots of other little girls too. Once the basics are figured out it is an easy and an enjoyable past time.


I call this coat and bonnet a "New England" style coat and bonnet not because I know that to be true but I have several friends that are from the New England states. When I've seen photographs of them as children or their children, I have without fail seen little coats and bonnets just like this pattern.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

I confess that I have a weakness for vintage patterns. Whenever I go to a thrift store, one of the first things I'm looking for is patterns. Once located, I have to look through all the patterns. I never know if there will be one sweet gem in the lot. I'd be sad to miss it...so I have to look. :)

This is about the sweetest doll clothes pattern I've ever laid eyes on.
McCalls 7592 Copyright 1964

I love, love, love, both little pinafores offered in this pattern. And the COAT! Sweet little coat with a seperate gnomes hood. Perfection all rolled into one pattern.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

There is no getting around that I like vintage patterns. There was a time I would have jumped at the chance to win a vintage pattern for a good price off of Ebay. Now that vintage patterns have become the rage and their prices have gone WAY up...I don't find to many good deals on Ebay anymore. That makes me sad. But every now and then when I'm looking around on Etsy, I find a good deal.
Check out this little number.
Simplicity 4851 copyright ??? definitely old, I'm guessing 1950's but that part of the envelope is crumbled away.


I can just see a little girl standing excitedly, if not somewhat impatiently, at her mothers side, while mother sits at the sewing machine, whipping up a new dress or jammies, for a special dolly friend.

Confessions of a Pattern Junkie

Vintage patterns. The words provoke a contented sigh.
The art work on the pattern envelopes along with the different sewing skills shown on the pattern instruction insert are lost to modern patterns. I particularly like that predominately, vintage children patterns, call for buttons instead of a zipper which has no personality or charming character like buttons possess.

Check out this pattern.
McCall's 7692 Copyright 1965

Look at the pattern number on the left side. There is some bold print that says "Childs dress with transfer for smocking" Right under that bold print it says in really small letters "(Not suitable for chubby girls)" I doubt that would be found on a pattern envelope now days. :) Seems McCall's didn't know about political correctness back in 1965 but did have the good sense to let their prospective consumer know what patterns they considered unsuitable for some children.